Infills are where good nail work shows. Not in the design, but in the maintenance: clean cuticle work, controlled removal, repairing weak points, and rebuilding the apex so the nail lasts another cycle.

This walkthrough covers a full acrygel infill on a three-week set, including how to remove old gel design, repair hairline cracks, prep safely with an e-file, and refine shape without thinning the natural nail.

What You Will Need

• Straight cutters (for safely removing crystals and reducing length)
• E-file with:
• Medium grit sanding bands (optional)
• Pink ceramic bit (gentler removal)
• Purple ceramic bit (faster, coarser removal for thicker designs)
• Cuticle bit (rugby ball / American football shape)
• Proximal fold bit (teardrop/pear shape)
• “Secret weapon” ceramic bit (safe close work and under-nail cleaning)
• You’ll also need:
• Dust brush
• Cleanser (isopropyl alcohol-based)
• Nail prep/dehydrator
• Base coat
• Acrygel
• Spatula
• Gel brush
• Slip solution
• Lamp matched to the product system
• Metal file for sidewalls (thin, strong, sanitizable)150/180 grit disposable file papers on a reusable metal board
• Buffer
  

Step 1: Assess Growth and Identify Repairs

At around three weeks, you may not see dramatic growth until the cuticles are pushed back properly. After prep, the true regrowth line becomes obvious.

Look closely for:

• Hairline cracks at the sidewalls
• Micro lifting
• Weak points around the stress area
  

If there is a split, open it up and remove the compromised product so the fresh product can bond properly. Do not patch over weak structure.

Step 2: Remove Crystals and Reduce Length Safely

Straight cutters are ideal for:

• Removing stones cleanly
• Cutting the length straight, without twisting the nail or forcing the product
  

These are not for skin. They are for product work: length control and embellishment removal.

Step 3: Remove the Old Gel Design: Two Proven Methods

There are two common routes for removing gel colour/design before an infill.

Option A: Medium sanding band on a mandrel

Best when:

• It is a natural nail with gel polish and a thin base layer
  
• You want speed
  
• You are only working a small surface area (short nails)
  

Pros:

• Fast
  
• Disposable and hygienic
  

Cons:

• Can build heat quickly on long nails due to increased surface contact
  

Option B: Ceramic removal bit (pink or purple)

Best when:

• Nails are longer
  
• Client is heat sensitive
  
• You want a smoother, controlled finish
  

Pink ceramic bit:

• Gentler for fewer layers
  
• Less likely to alter shape
  

Purple ceramic bit:

• Coarser for thick designs and multiple layers
  
• Faster removal, but more likely to change shape if you are not controlled
  

Ceramic bits also tend to heat up less than sanding bands, which matters when you are working across a long nail for longer.

Key technique:

• Go gently near the cuticle
  
• Pull skin back to access the sidewalls
  
• Pull towards the free edge, not backwards into the tip, to preserve shape
  

Step 4: Cuticle Work That Makes Infills Last Longer

This is where longevity starts. If you do not expose the full nail plate properly, the client will leave looking like they need an infill sooner than they should.

Cuticle bit (rugby ball shape)

Use around 5,000 to 7,000 RPM with low angle and no digging. Movement stays controlled and consistent.

On yourself, you may keep the motion forward and change your hand position. On clients, you often work in reverse to make the rotation push the cuticle back safely.

Proximal fold bit (teardrop/pear shape)

Used to exfoliate non-living tissue around the proximal fold.

What matters most:

• Low angle
  
• Low pressure
  
• Correct rotation for the hand position
  

If speed is too high or angle too steep, you will eat into the natural nail. The aim is clean prep, not damage.

Step 5: Etch the Natural Nail Lightly

Use a fine sanding band at low speed to remove shine and create a light key. This also helps blend the join between old product and new growth.

Technique:

• No pressure
  
• Skim over the nail
  
• Focus only on the natural nail area and blend line
  

Dust thoroughly, then cleanse.

Step 6: Dehydrate and Base Coat Only Where Needed

Apply nail prep/dehydrator to the natural nail. Do not flood.

Apply base coat thinly:

• Only on the natural nail
  
• Slightly “kicked” onto the existing product for a smooth transition
  

Cure for 30 seconds in the correct lamp for the system. Mixed lamps can work, but manufacturers test products with their own lamps, so best practice is matching the system.

Step 7: Apply Acrygel and Rebuild the Apex

Use a spatula to place pea-sized amounts. Use a gel brush with slip solution in a dish.

Critical rule:

Do not flood slip solution onto the base coat area. Excess slip solution around the cuticle zone increases lifting risk.

Work method:

1. Place and settle product near the cuticle area first with a damp brush
   
2. Float product down to fill the gap
   
3. Rebalance the apex into the back third of the full nail length
   

If you have a dip or gap, add a little more product and blend. Cure as needed. If you are not confident doing four fingers at once, do two at a time and cure.

Step 8: Remove the Sticky Layer Before Filing

Cleanse off inhibition layer before filing. Filing through sticky gel ruins files quickly and makes everything clog.

Step 9: File Sidewalls, Shape, and Apex

A thin metal file is excellent for sidewalls because it is strong, precise, and sanitiseable.

A reusable metal board with disposable paper files works well:

• 180 grit on one side
  
• 150 grit on the other
  

Score the edges to remove sharpness, especially around the cuticle.

If you struggle to get close at the cuticle without catching skin, switch to an e-file bit:

• Pink bit if minimal bulk
  
• Purple if heavy bulk
  
• “Secret weapon” bit for safe close work
  

Step 10: The “Secret Weapon” Detail: Under-Nail Cleaning

The ceramic “secret weapon” bit can clean under the free edge, removing visible natural nail build-up that looks grubby in photos and day-to-day wear.

Rules:

• Keep moving to avoid heat
  
• Do not press down too far
  
• Do not break the seal of the hyponychium
  

This small detail makes clients feel the service is thorough and premium.

Step 11: Buff and Clean

Buff for smoothness and soften sharp edges, especially for modern almond shapes. Cleanse to remove dust.

Cuticle oil is normally the finish, but if design work is next, oil can wait until after colour or art.

Quick Checklist: Acrygel Infill Workflow

• Remove crystals and reduce length safely
  
• Remove old gel design with sanding band or ceramic bit
  
• Identify cracks and remove compromised product
  
• Cuticle prep with correct bit rotation and low angle
  
• Lightly etch natural nail and blend join
  
• Dehydrate and base coat only the natural nail zone
  
• Apply acrygel in small amounts
  
• Rebuild apex in the back third of full nail length
  
• Cure properly in the correct lamp
  
• Remove sticky layer before filing
  
• File sidewalls, refine apex, perfect shape
  
• Buff, cleanse, finish with oil
  

Kirtsty’s full video tutorial of this method can be found here. 

Common Problems and Fixes

Heat spikes during removal

Cause: sanding band on long nails creates friction over a large area

Fix: switch to pink ceramic bit, lighten pressure, keep moving

Lifting around cuticle after infills

Cause: slip solution or product flooded onto base coat zone

Fix: keep brush damp, do the cuticle zone first, avoid excess liquid

Shape changes during gel removal

Cause: coarser bit pulling backwards into the tip

Fix: pull towards the free edge, use gentler bit, check angles often

Crack returns in the same place

Cause: patching over weak product without opening and cleaning the split

Fix: remove compromised product, open the area, then refill with fresh structure

Clients “need infills” too soon

Cause: cuticles not pushed back properly, leaving nail plate unexposed

Fix: improve cuticle prep so full regrowth is revealed and filled correctly